Another Day In Paradise!

Last night my co-traveler friend, Mike, and I arrived in Da Nang, Vietnam from Saigon via Vietnam Airlines. The hour and a half flight was perfect nap time to recharge my batteries after a full day. When we landed and claimed our baggage and exited the terminal, we were instantly swarmed by taxi drivers offering to take us to our destination for 200,000 Dong.

For the uninitiated, 200,000 Vietnam Dong equates to just under $10 US at the current exchange rate – 22,500 Dong to $1. If one wanted to skip the gameshow circuit and become a millionaire one could technically take $100 and exchange it into Dong. Remember, if one wants to maintain their status as a millionaire, one must invest and spend wisely. One million Dong is not a lot of money if you’re doing resorts and tours. One night at a hostel could costs 130,000 Dong.

Back outside the terminal of Da Nang’s airport, I relied on some insider traveling information I’d received from our hostel, the Da Nang Backpackers Hostel. Earlier that day, I contacted them about the rate for a taxi. The staff promptly responded by emailed that 40,000 Dong should be the going rate to get to the hostel. Wow, 40,000 Dong is a huge difference from 200,000. Mike and I waited for a taxi that offered a lower buy in price.

It took passing up about three cabs before we found a driver willing to take us to the Backpackers hostel for 40,000 Dong. The taxi fare standoff  was a success and expertly played by Mike. The advanced research and tip from the hostel made us savvy travelers and saved us from spending on the inflated price a short ride.

The drive from the airport along the river was dazzling. Lights from the Dragon Bridge reflected on the water below it a surreal way. Seeing the Dragon Bridge firsthand made me I feel like I was in a fantastical place that I’d only seen in movies. I’ve honestly never seen a bridge designed to look like dragon flying over the water with lights coloring the body spectrum of colors. Even though the streets looked quite empty for 10 PM. The city vibrated with a potential energy that I couldn’t wait to experience when things got moving in the day.

We arrived at the Da Nang Backpackers Hostel to a welcoming and peasant check-in staff. One of my favorite items during check-in included a survey that asked what songs I wanted to hear during breakfast. I took the question earnestly choosing Phil Collins’ “Another Day In Paradise.” At first I thought no one is going to want to find this old song and play it at breakfast. Still wrote down the title and forgot about it. The evening manager then show us our accommodations for the night. Mike and I were taking it back to the old college days with a dormitory style room shared with four other travelers.

During this backpacking experience, the rooms I’ve stayed in have been like NYSE trading floors swapping good and bad travel stories like stocks. It’s good to exchange stories and experiences with a variety of people so that I can diversify my traveler portfolio. I’m definitely extending the metaphor here, but fellow travelers have offered me useful advice and have inspired me to visit other countries. If you’re backpacking you have to get out on the trading floor.

Mike and I picked our bunks and settled into our new place. Our dorm mates quickly introduced themselves and we talked about our time in Cambodia and they shared stories of their travels from three months of navigating south from northern Vietnam. We also digressed into a Star Wars conversation seeing as how the new film, The Force Awakens, is apparently the greatest Star Wars movie to date. As a fan, I’m bitter that I haven’t seen it due to my travels and Siem Reap not having a multiplex. But I digress.

For the rest of the evening, we the newly acquainted dorm mates along with a few others from the travelers, spent the evening in the basement of the hostel listening to what sounded like EDM and playing billiards on a table from a realm where Earth’s physics don’t apply. I’ve come to this conclusion after seeing several billiards balls either change direction to curve around other balls, lose and then strangely regain momentum, or just stop right at the edge of the pocket. All I can say is Asgard called and they want their billiards table back.  I may also be just a bit bitter that I didn’t win any games. Again I digress.

The staff and travelers I’ve met in my first night have given me a good impression and I hope the remainder of my stay (two more nights) can only get better. The Da Nang Backpackers Hostel feels like a fine institution in which to exchange my traveling stocks (again extended metaphor) and meet some great people. If you are backpacking to Da Nang, know someone who is, have a relative who knows someone who is, or any combination of these certainly make a stop at this hostel. Here’s the website.

http://danangbackpackershostel.com

Oh. I almost forgot. Free breakfast is available to all the guests upon request. I couldn’t pass up the offer for eggs and pancakes. While eating my first meal of the day with one of my dorm mates, I heard the voice of Phil Collins on the overhead speakers: “Another Day In Paradise.” They found it! Maybe not the best song for vacation (it’s a song that addresses the issue of homelessness), but I was still joyed that the staff made an effort to put my song request into rotation on the Da Nang Backpackers Hostel Breakfast Radio.

Siem Reap Redemption

On the third day in Siem Reap, temple fatigue set. We spent the day prepping for travel to Ho Chi Minh not planning to do anything else in the city.

I had to end my time in Siem Reap on a good note so I inquired about a tour of the floating village in Kompong Pluk. It’s called the floating village because in the rainy season the water levels raise so high that the house look like there sitting on water – there actually on really tall stilts and support beams.

I had nothing else going that afternoon so it seemed like a great way to get away from the hostel and the try to beat my temple fatigue. I ran a few errands, bought bus tickets for our night sleeper bus and bought a pineapple smoothie for lunch. Thirty minutes later, I was in a minivan leaving town for the rural lands of Siem Reap.

On my taxi ride from the airport a few days earlier, my driver told me one of the good attractions of Siem Reap was the floating village. I asked how for that was from guest house. He said far. I like being able to do activities near  my living accommodations. I glad I didn’t try to walk to this place. The drive was definitely an hour on bumping back roads where skinny cows walked along the should of the road and vehicles had to share a very narrow lane.

During the ride our tour guide said we’d be getting a free massage and by that she meant when we got off the asphalt the rocky dirt road made the seats in our minivan rumble like Sharper Image vibrating loungers. It was a new twist on modern technology.

We reached a dock that where our tour boat was ported. Oh it was this cool sixteen seated motor powered skiff that belonged in Apocalypse Now. With the assistance of our guide giving us a hand, we had climbed from the muddy banks onto the bow made of unfinished, coarse wood planks. Our captain a teenaged fellow with a woven straw hat and and his first mate a boy around 10 years old with a fuzzy hairdo. We shoved off and cruised down the river leading to the village.

My group and I were immediately fascinated with the little surroundings. As we entered the village we passed three elevated buildings that served for the community essentials: a police station, a local government office and a school building. These structures were buildt with materials that gave them a modern appearance.

The majority of the homes in the village they were crafted crafted by hand with assembled sheet metal for the roofs and siding. The  steps and stilts were made from bamboo and wood. The homes in this village had to be incredible string to endure the rainy season and they were made with very straight forward mostly natural materials.

Our captain docked the boat and our tour guide walked us through the village. We got a closer look at the houses and met the villagers. Many of them were children on a day off from school. Thursday was typically their free day since the village teachers were in Siem Reap working at a training school. I guess it was like an in service. We did get to see a class session of children learning how to count in English.

The adults in the village were working. Either creating nets for fishing, repairing their boat motors and doing construction on their homes. They were also a few ladies selling us little paperback puzzle books and unsharpened pencils to give to the children. Work was everywhere.

During a tour of one of the homes, we got to see the layout of a typical house. With a large set of bamboo stairs leading to the front main room. The back had the kitchen and cooking area. Our guide talked about some of the native Khmer dishes one was a fish butter that was often made to last for a long time past the rainy season and another dish called Amok that is often served with fish. Amok is expensive to make for the average village family and is viewed a a luxury meal.

The kitchen that we toured was about fairly small space with a place to create a fire and cook pots over. The floors were bamboo and slatted in a way where you could see down to the earth below. We were about 25 to 30 feet above the ground. The bamboo seemed to give at every step, but the guide ensured is we were ok. As encouragement she mentioned that children run around with no problem! God bless bamboo.

Back in our boat, we headed to the floating market. The market in this time looked more like a hub for a few groups of tourist to eat, but I’m guessing it typically is a center for commerce among the villagers. On the center floating hub, I took an offer to go on a separate tour to the forest water the  was about a meter high up the trees. It was a nice jaunt.

The tour guide later told me that the woman paddle my canoe was a single woman in the village and the other rowers were teasing her that we should marry. If I had understood this and spoke Cambodian, I would have made that boat ride our first date. Maybe a little awkward to have my date do all the rowing, but I’d row on the second date.

We got back on our boat just in time to see the sunset. It was a moment of serenity sitting with a group of cool people and enjoying nature’s Netflix. Of course once the sunsets it gets dark and chilly so we made our way back through the village snaking along the twists in the river.

We returning to home base after the bumping ride along the dirt road leading away from the village. I’d felt like the slump I’d experienced in Cambodia had totally been offset just in viewing the sunset. I closed my night with dinner at a restaurant across the street from my hostel.

Inspired by the tour of the kitchen, I order fish Amok. That dish singlehanded redeemed my three days in Cambodia . This bowl of Amok was so badass I ordered a second. The owner who took my second order looked at me as though a Norwal horn jutted from my forehead. I guess no one has ever gone amuck with Amok in Siem Reap. ZIIING!

Turnt Up for Angkor Wat

Today was an exhausting day in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I woke at 7:52 AM to shower, pack my bags, and check out the Oral d’Angkor which came as a recommendation from, Jennie, a friend I met during my last night in Chiang Mai.

My shower kicked off on the wrong foot when the bathroom inexplicably lost water for both the sink faucet and shower head. I had already soaped up my upper body and didn’t want to walk down to the front desk with dried Zest on my neck. I waited for a bit with the sink faucet open and eventually we were back in business.

After my shower, I hustled to the Downtown Siem Reap hostel by tuk-tuk to drop my bags off and meet Mike for a day trip to Angkor Wat. I got to the hostel around 10 AM, but had missed Mike who went with two other Americans at 9AM to the temples.

You may be asking yourself, “it took you more than two hours to get to your second hostel? Why so long?” Let me answer that now. Before I took my shower I was working on the two WordPress entries. I have my priorities and as you know, “blogs before shower fogs.”

Now that I’ve missed my Angkor tour group and tuk tuk, I have to prep a plan of contingency. Next door to the hostel was Adenture Loop, a business that provided tours and activities for tourists. They also rented bicycles. I got a city bike for $3, a map, rode in the direction the woman renting the bike told me. I really don’t know where I’m going.

The main instructions are follow the Siem Reap River, go to the Angkor Wat check point, and ride another 17 minutes to get to the ruins site. These are not the best directions.

In fact, I got lost for about a half hour going in the completely wrong direction. First I rode along a rural road then turned right onto a major city street. It was going on a major highway with a bicycle. During my misguided pedaling, I kept my composure though my mind was in sheer panic. I had no idea where I was.

The street lead back to the Siem Reap River and I was right again. I took a second go of it and this time asked for directions. I first asked a female food vendor who I asked didn’t speak English and had a very palpable “atti-rude” towards me. A male food vendor was kind enough to point me in the right direction and I pushed the way he gestured.

I found the Angkor Wat check point where I bought a $20 day pass and had a tangerine with a few gulps of water before making the remaining leg of 17 minutes to the ruins.

This part of the ride was less traffic heavy but still daunting. I thought I’d never get there when finally I started to see gray-stoned structures in the distance. The Angkor Wat ruins were finally visible.

I arrived at the entrance of Angkor Wat temple first. I pedaled stunned at the grandeur and eerie statues that framed the bridge leading to the temple. The street around the temple swarmed with street vendor and tuk tuk drivers looking for business. I wanted to stop go, but figured I go around to see some other temples on the site. I also could find a spot to chain up my bike. I looked for a spot to lock up my bike.

In my search to find a hitching post, rode across the coolest bridge I’ve seen in the history of cool ancient bridges. The sides of the bridge were lined with four- foot statues that looked like idols from Raiders of the Lost Ark. It’s a side that could be done justice if seen in person.

After crossing the idol bridge, I rode along a section of jungle that served as a home for a family of monkeys. They seemed docile as people took pictures of them eating and living normally.

I finally got out and walked at Bayon Temple. By this point I was dripping with sweating and beginning to feel my head ache from both dehydration and pedal fatigued. I walked through all the shady spots in the temple to keep my temperature low.

While in Bayon, a boy intercepted me and rattled off a bunch of Amercian facts. My tourist alarm went off. The boy then started to give me a tour and I knew something was up. I went along for a few moments before asking if this tour costs any money and he brushed off the question. My tourist alarm was in the red.

When we reached a prayer room, the boy took out a piece of paper and asked me to read and then donate to help him with school. I didn’t mind helping. Based on the amount I donated, which seemingly would have made Jack Benny approve, my tour was over. The boy told me to have a nice day. We parted ways and he said I was generous.

Outsude the temple I took some photos then bought a pineapple from a street vendor to keep my energy up. I sat near a group of tourist from Japan who were also taking a break. These temples really attract a huge number of people.

I biked to a few more temples in the way to the main attraction, Prohm, made even more famous when featured in the movie Tomb Raider. Having the bike made it great to ride through the tuck away spots around the temples. I climbed into a couple of small temples that other visitors weren’t flocking to and took my time walking in their shade.

After a feeling of eerie loneliness, I got back on the main roads pedaling closer and closer to my last temple. Pedal fatigue began setting in again. I drank as much water as I could tolerance and grabbed some more pineapple. I could feel pedal fatigue starting to give way to temple fatigue as well. I had one more temple in me.

At about 4PM, I skipped a couple of temples on the path. I wanted to see Prohm around sunset, but knew if I were out around sunset the ride back on my bike would be in pitch black. I hustled to Prohm and got there in good time. People were exiting the temple in droves which was good so less people were inside.

Temple fatigue made Prohm less interested than I’d hoped. This temple was known for having huge trees growing through the stones and that was incredible to look at. The one thing I would have liked was a tour guide. Where was the child guide here? Giving the structure some context makes the visit less mindless wandering. Prohm is definitely a temple to see. It worth the visit along. Having a historically frame about the structure will make it a full experience.

Throughout the day, I have very little conversation with other people. Even other English speaking travelers weren’t friendly in Angkor Wat. My last conversation with one of the park guards was fun. He asked where I was from and said it was a good place. We got to talking about family and he said he’d been married for 8 years with two children. He said he was an old man at 28 and I frowned. Damn, is 28 old in Cambodia? I should have taken an Hoveround to Angkor Wat not a bicycle.

I said it was nice to meet him and got back on my bike. Sunset was coming quickly and I still needed to back on the main road to the city.

Motorscooters and cars zoomed passed me as pedaled hard. The dust from road clouding up to my eyes. I wanted to put my sunglasses back on but it was too dark for this dusk ride. As the evening set on the road, I realized I had no idea how long it would take to get back to the main road.

When I asked the park guard during our conversation which way to the exit he pointed straight ahead. It seemed like most of my directions that day were simple go straight. Nothing about turns. If you came to a turn you had to ask another person which way to go from there. They would point you in a straight direction until the next turn.

I was going in the direction the guard pointed and I couldn’t read any road signs so I kept straight. And sure enough came a left turn I didn’t know if it was the right way and there was no around to ask. I deliberated for a few moments then opted to stay my course.

In what felt like ten minutes, I finally saw the most that surrounded Angkor Wat. I also saw monkeys and felt like things were coming together. I made a slight left towards what I assume would be the main road and biked along the moat.

The way back in the main road was a left turn through basically two lanes of traffic, the faster moving vehicles in my lane and the oncoming from the left lane. I had ridden a bike in years and I certainly haven’t ridden in major traffic. So I slowed down, assessed my situation, calculated my entry into the flow and made my move.

I was back on the main road on unscathed. The traffic is very fluid here. It’s important to keep cool and pick a direction so everyone can move around you. Don’t stop if you don’t have to. At the temple, every time I stopped to let people pass in the opposite direction people behind walked around me like “forget them, just go.” Teaching moment.

Damn that main road is a long ride. On a bike and in the dark, it’s tiresome and equally exciting. I was a part of the traffic pattern that night moving and making my way around… until I got lost.

The way I took from the rental office was on a one way street. I turned on that street on the way back and had to avoid on coming traffic. After biking a few meters against the flow of traffic I turned out to a road totally unfamiliar, but I knew if I could get on a street that led to the river I’d be fine. It took a few minutes of riding on a bunch of different streets before I found the traffic round about that put me back on track.

I dropped the bike off at 7pm, took a sign relief and walked next door to the hostel to sit in the lobby. I ran into Mike who had just gotten back and was about to go for a swim. I didn’t need a swim. I was wet enough from sweating all day.

Closing Week Lessons

It’s all about learning from your experiences and becoming a better person.

-Me

I hope one day philosophy students will quote me, but until then my two weeks of traveling have been educational on a number of things. I’ll give you five.

  1. Pack light. I’m learning this as I move from location to location. Being agile is good on trips like this. I thought I did a good job packing essentials into my 80 liter backpack, but I’ve seen people with smaller bags traveling for a lot longer. I can’t imagine what I would eliminate.  I really need my 8 pair of underwear in cause of emergency.
  2. Make friends. I’ve been amazed how open and willing to talk most people have been during this trip. It’s even more cool when I’ve see them again later during my travels. That was certainly the case in Thailand most people were on the same northern route from Bangkok to Chiang Mai and Pai. Talking to people helped fine tone my travel plans and made me realize the next item.
  3. Learn languages. Damn, I wish I spoke Thai, French, Cambodian, German… the list could go for days. Only speaking English in foreign countries is like trying to put a square peg into a round peg. I’ve gotten by so far, but it feels like a struggle to close the language gap and limits the experiences and sharing. I had an experience with a food vendor basically refused to talk to me because I start off saying “hello” in English. Maybe they were just weird, but I’ll take some of the blame. That’s a volley for point four.
  4. Don’t eat French Fries in Southeast Asia. This isn’t a warning about not eating fried potatoes, though I will warn you to ONLY DRINK BOTTLED WATER, it’s more of a roundabout way of saying eat some of the foods that are local dishes of the country you visit. I’ll warn you to make sure it’s cooked properly, but I’ve loved so many dishes here that can only be imitated back home. On my last night in Cambodia, I had two bowls of fish Amok, in the same sitting, at an incredible Siem Reap restaurant across from our hostel. I may have eaten like an American (huge food portions), but I really enjoyed trying some genuine Khmer cuisine. You ready for point five?
  5. Use a “bum gun”. To reduce toilet paper usage and plumbing clogs, many bathrooms in Southeast Asia have spray hoses (same in appearance to the ones used in kitchen) to rinse your booty crack after going number two. I can never get fully on board with intentionally spraying water on my butt, especially cold water. I have to give credit to those who can do that on a daily, maybe even tri-daily basis, and not be in a grumpy  mood. The possibility of walking around all day with soggy underwear makes me depressed. SE Asia I tip my hat to you.

In my final week, I plan to gain a few more useful sayings for my future philosophy quotables. I hope these points help you when you make the trip to a foreign land or maybe just in your daily life. You could make friends or learn a new language during your lunch break, try a restaurant that serves different foreign foods every now and then, or at the very least have management install “bum guns” in the office bathrooms. Either way, it’s all about trying something new and becoming better for it.

Beyond Circus Dome

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The old folks say don’t rush into love and I know it’s only been a few hours but I this could be the one. Pai, Thailand is the girlfriend I’ve always wanted- well known but not ridiculously popular, artistic but not snobby, busy but not overwhelming. Technically we’re still on a first date and we haven’t even slept together so I don’t want to ruin a good thing so early by putting too much pressure on Pai. We’ll just take it a day at a time.

When we arrived earlier I felt like I just entered the last surviving town of a dystopian wasteland. The narrow streets were packed with pedestrians speaking the gamut of known languages and motor scooters weaving through the people on foot. Everyone seemed have all of their worldly possessions in their backpacks. In a city of outsiders, I was the one who felt like an outlander. To set the dystopian tribe atmosphere more, we drove to our hostel called the Circus Hostel where cross from the entrance there was a restaurant that hung skin from a pig’s head on its awning. Uww. The main attraction of the Circus because the bamboo and straw bungalows is the from lawn which offer slack rope and juggling training and features shows in the evening. The people staying here are a tight knit community that act like family even though they may have only been staying here for a few days. All the location needs is Tina Turner in her hoop earrings and a metal dome of the fire jugglers to spin their flaming batons hence Circus Dome.

One my first night with my new love, I walked the market of the city streets beyond the Circus Dome, played a vicious game of doubles pool with a dude named Ach who works at the Pig’s face skin restaurant, and reconnected with some of the familiar faces from my time in Chiang Mai. The Outlander continues to survive among the adventurous nomads and motor scooter drivers in the otherworldly land. They don’t need another hero. They don’t want to find the way home.

Jungle Trek: The Final Frontier

Jungle date: 20151206. A group of trekkers and I embarked on our first day into wilderness for a remote village near Wang Mae. Before our journey began, the group got to know  each other over a banana leaf filled with rice, egg, and vegetables. The group was a UN of travelers with people from all the countries you’d want to visit: France, Netherlands, and Brazil to name a few. Our language barriers didn’t make it difficult to break the ice. As a group of mostly guys (one lady among us) we bonded over the disappointment that more women weren’t in our group. These are pictures I took before the trek in the village farm.

Tigers, Tigers and Tigers, oh my!

On my first day in Chiang Mai, I had the pleasure to meet a few tigers. Listen, if you don’t have the urge to tempt fate by petting a large wild jungle cat, no problem dudes. I did it for you. Think of me as your Bruce Willis staying on the asteroid in Armageddon. I’ll sacrifice life and limb, but only because I care for your safety.

It was incredible to be within “snack time” proximity to an animal that powerful. One of my fellow travelers was worried that the tigers would all of a sudden lose its composure while we were in the cages. It didn’t help that we just saw Jurassic World a few hours prior as we rode into Chiang Mai. I tried to curb the anxiety by stating that these tigers are professional and knew when to keep how to keep their jungle life separate from their work life.

The four us had a great time in the tigers cages and the tigers basically slept the whole time. Being on the other end of the situation, I don’t know if I could have been as unphased if a quick snack came that close to me. Just know, I would take a chunk out of the Hostess Twinkie man the second he pets me.

 

 

Halfway around the world in 22 hours

Today I’m about to embark on a trip to a new land… Thailand. I’m still packing my backpack at 1300 (yes, that’s military time). I’m excited I have a chance to  see another country. My only concern, the 22-hour flight. Sure we as an intelligent species have accomplished many great achievements, but I’m shocked that no one has developed a way to get around the world in less than thirty minutes. We should stop focusing on hybrid vehicles and pour all of our R&D money in thirty minute world travel. Leading that charge, I’d nominate Dominos with there proven technology and guarantee to get a pizza to mostly anywhere in thirty minutes. With a business model and set of ethics like that they are our greatest hope. And who wouldn’t have to travel in a plane sponsored by a pizza franchise: A flight attendant over the intercom, “For our flight this afternoon we’ll offering full cheesy bread service and if you would like to order the special for this flight please hit the pizza button about your head next to the fasten seat belt light. Sure it would have some kinks, but what major revolutions technology don’t.

That imagination cloud aside, this will be an incredible trip- getting to see a part of the world that is only available to me through action movies and very tiny restaurants. It’ll be fun when the restaurant is the like the whole place and the I’ll be a character in the movie (another dream cloud).

I’ll left it that so I can get back to packing: now it’s 1415 (still military time).